More on engine temperature

Given the consistent results I've got with my previous modification, I've dared a little more.
I fitted some cheap pipe insulators in the remaining slots of the radiator grill:

The lower insulator is kept in place by pressure from the license plate, while I fixed the upper one with a couple plastic ties.

I was worried this type of insulation will prevent the engine from refreshing and will cause it to overheat.
As a stress test, I drove for an hour on various medium/high speed roads and some steep hills.
Even though the weather was sunny and the ambient temperature was 7 degress, coolant temperature reached 90 degrees and didn't go any further.

Covering the Yaris radiator

Low temperature causes higher fuel consumption, so I tried an old trick.
In a car accessory shop, I've found and old Fiat 127 radiator rubber cover. The owner was pleased to sell it to me at a discounted price, since he said nobody uses it anymore.
Colour and size are just fine for the Yaris.
I just had to cut some holes to fit 3 plastic cable ties to grab it to the rear mask.

There are even some windows that can be opened to regulate air flow in warmer days.

Results are encouraging.

Metallic noise from the hood

While driving in EV mode on bumpy roads, I've heard some metallic noise coming from the hood.
At first, I thought it was the hood itself, but at a closer examination I've excluded it because it rests on rubber supports while closed.
Maybe today I've found the source of the noise.
There's a felt-like rigid sheet under the hood. It's bolted on all sides except one, where it can vibrate against the hood.
I've placed a small wooden spacer to keep it in place.
I'll see in the next days if the noise will vanish.

Changing the Yaris Hybrid key battery

Differently from most other car manufacturers, the Toyota car key can be opened without a screwdriver.

Start by pressing the "PUSH" label to extract the key.

 Pull it off completely

Right next to the extraction point, there's a small horizontal slot, just the size of the key tip.
Insert the key and rotate it.

The shell will open itself.

Now, play the same trick once more to remove the battery holder

and here it is the 3V CR2032 battery.

Repairing Roomba main brushes

After a couple of years of relentless service, my trusty iRobot Roomba has stopped spinning his brushes. It roams the room, spins the side brush, but the bottom, counter-rotating brushes don't work anymore.
With a little searching in various forums, it seems that dust may pile up into the electric motor until a complete freeze.
Roomba is a pleasure to open: its construction is entirely modular and all the pieces come together by screws and joints. The screws, even when unscrewed, remain into their seating, so they can't be lost
I opened the underbelly by turning 5 screws.

Using an air compressor, I've sprayed lots of air on all the moving parts, removing an impressive amount of dust.
The main brushes motor is located under the red box.

You can see a hole that peeks inside the motor where you can see the copper windings: lots of compressed air in and lots of dust out!

I've reassembled all the components and voilà: Roomba is back in action.

The hanged power brick

I don't like clutter on my desk, neither cable jams underneath, so here is a tool-less solution for placing a notebook power brick under the desk.

You'll need 2 adesive cable guides and a plastic strip:

Stick one tab on the side of the power brick:

Stick another on the side of the desk:

Now, slide the plastic strip aligning the tab on the desk and the one on the brick as shown:

 

Let the brick slide along the plastic strip until the plastic tabs will rest one onto another (here shown unattached):

 

Note that the plastic strip is simply inserted inside the guides of the plastic tabs and can be extracted at will.
The power brick will be hold by the tabs:

The brick is not fastened in any way, and it can be pulled out when needed on the road.
Once back at the desk, the same plastic strip can be reused to hold the brick again.